Style of Climbing:
Steep snow and ice
Located in Garibaldi Provincial Park, Mount Garibaldi, also known as Diamond Head, is the last peak in the chain of stratovolcanoes extending from California’s Mount Shasta.Book Now
Mount Garibaldi sports massive glaciers and a truly Olympian summit. This two days guided trip entails a bivouac at the edge of the Warren Glacier and a steep snow/ice climb up the northeast face of the mountain to its high point at 2678 meters (8,786 feet).
This is a grand outing that takes you literally from Sea to Sky! The vistas off the top of Mt Garibaldi looking down to the Howe Sound are next to none worldwide.
*Due to the remote nature of this mountain access requires a 4x4 vehicle or helicopter access. Either option can be added at an additional cost*
Day 1: Meet your guide in Squamish, 4×4 approach to Brohm ridge, hike and scramble over the “Shark’s Fin,” set up camp on the moraines by the Warren Glacier, below Mt Garibaldi. Glacier “warm-up” walk to scope out the route for the next day.
Day 2: Alpine start, ascend the Warren glacier to the Northeast face of Mt Garibaldi. Climb ice and snow to 45 degrees and scramble the final slopes to the dramatic summit, overlooking the caldera and Howe Sound. Descend the same route off Garibaldi back to camp and down to Brohm Ridge the same day. Enjoy the view back to the summit of Garibaldi from Squamish in time for dinner.
*Contact us for custom dates, duration and included costs
The number one question we get from our guests is, "are we ready for a multi-pitch?". 99.9% the answer is YES, a guide's job is literally to push their guest's ability. If you have a minimum climbing experience and eagerness for a day of adventure, we can design a trip for you!
Previous rock climbing experience, in the gym or outside.
Have top-roped 5.6 as a minimum
Fitness to be moving for a minimum of 3 hours
Can hike at least 1 hour in uphill terrain
Likes being outside
Sounds too basic for you? We got you covered - our team can guide anything from the easiest to nearly the Squamish's hardest routes.
Mount Garibaldi Northeast face is a classic snow and ice route with climbing up to 45 degrees and a slew of technical crevasses and a bergschrund to cross.
Elevation gain from parking: 1500m
Elevation gain on the glacier: 600m
Climb steepness: 45 - 55 degrees
Distance (one way): 10km
Mountain Boots – full-leather, They should be well broken-in and waterproofed with snow seal or similar
Sleeping bag – good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius
Sleeping pad – Therm-a-rest style or closed-cell foam
Backpack – 40-80 litre capacity
Summit-pack – 20-40 litre capacity (Optional)
Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
Sunglasses – UV block with good eye coverage (1pr)
Headlamp with new batteries
Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
Sunscreen – minimum SPF 45
Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 litre
Small “thermos” for hot drinks (optional)
Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
Gaiters (1 pair) – Optional if built-in paint gaiters or boot gaiters
Personal eating utensils – cup, bowl, spoon
Knife – Swiss army style
Tape / Repair kit
Lightweight 2 or 3 person tent
Single burner stove and fuel*
Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)*
Compass and map
Ice axe and technical climbing tool*
Climbing harness – seat harness only*
3 locking carabineers*
1 belay device*
Crampons – adjusted to your boots (1 pair)*
*Supplied by Altus if required
Note: Gear requirements can change based on trip and conditions.