Equipment
Boots
These need to be sturdy leather or leather/cordura boots with lug soles and good ankle support. A good boot would be the La Sportiva Glacier Mountaineering boot (good for snow and ice climbs but not as good for alpine rock routes) or the La Sportiva Trango S Evo (good for alpine rock routes and OK for snow climbs) Light hiking boots, especially ones that are not leather, are not appropriate. Your boots are the single most important piece of gear for this trip, make sure you have the right kind and make sure they fit well and won’t give you blisters.
Crampons
These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings. For steeper/longer ice routes a pair of heavier, rigid 12-point crampons are required, such as the Petzl Vasak.
Ice Axe
Your ice axe should be about 55 – 65cm long depending on height. Examples include the Black Diamond Venom, Petzl Sumtec or Summit, or Grivel Air Tech Evo.
Helmet
Designed for climbing. Petzl Ecrin Rock, Meteor, etc.
Harness
A sit harness with a belay loop is required. Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and less than 10 years old.
Backpack > 30L
Your pack needs to be big enough fit all your gear plus some food.works. Make sure you can fit everything in before you leave home with some room to spare for food.
Crevasse rescue kit (we can provide)
2x 5 meter – 6 mm prussics
2x 1.5 meter – 6mm prussics
1 x 120cm sewn sling
1 x Ice screw
4 x Locking carabiners
2 x Non locking carabiners
1 x Belay device
Clothing:
Base Layers
Thermals top/bottom, Socks – as we will be spending nights in huts or camping I would recommend bringing extra socks but only 1 set of thermals should be sufficient for a 2 or 3 trip.
Climbing Layers
Mid-weight soft shell jacket and pants are recommended. Something that will provide protection from the elements but remain breathable.
Waterproof Shell (gore-tex), pants/jackets
Lightweight and packable. Often the waterproof jacket will be worn where the pants are often only worn in the most extreme conditions. Pants with full side zips are highly recommended.
Insulated Jacket
A midweight insulated jacket, either down or synthetic.
Warm headwear
Gloves
A least 2 pairs! One lighter weight for climbing and another heavier pair for cold temperatures.
Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection
At the very minimum, a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended. Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required – Cat 3 or 4.
Small first aid and repair kit
Your guide will have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.
Water bottle and/or thermos
1 – 2 liters capacity
Headlamp
Bring extra batteries.
Camera