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gari

Mount Garibaldi NE Face – Trip Report July 4th

On Friday the birthday of America our guest from Chicago snuck in an Ascent of Mount Garibaldi via the NE face. Our original plan was to climb it in our normal fashion of 2 days. One day to the cam on the moraines just past brohm ridge and the second day climbing the peak and returning home. The weather forecast kept looking worse and worse for our summit days so we opted for an early start and going for the peak in one day before the weather came.

JOSHUA LAVIGNE ON UNIVERSITY WALL Leading Shadow Pitch

University Wall the “Shadow” and Roman Chimneys 5.12d – Trip Report

What a great day out on one of my favourite routes on the planet! University wall in Squamish. It was a battle but a pleasure to get to climb the University Wall in Squamish with my good friend Josh Lavigne. Other than the typical early season wet spots of the cracks it was a perfect day out. Finishing with the Roman Chimneys makes for one of the best classic long days of multi Squamish has to offer.

Pointe Lachenal - Harold e Maud

Pointe Lachenal, Haruld e Maud 5.10 – Chamonix Rock Climbing

Rock climbing at almost 4000m high above broken expansive glaciers… in early June. Ill take it! Chamonix is really just unbelievable when it come to the access potential. A 1 hours walk from the Aiguille du midi life you have a life times worth of epic alpine rock climbing. From 5 to way to many pitchs. Yesterday I teamed up with American mountain guide Danny Ulhmann and bad ass alpine steep skier Gulia Monego to climb the Pointe Lachenal

Climbing south face of Mt Habrich My 31 2014

Mt Habrich – Summit Trip May 31, 2014

What a fun day out on Mt Habrich! Looks like we may have been the first to summit Mt Habrich this season. There is still lots of early season snow around on the approach and some of the ledges on the west face. We acceded the south face mostly following the route Life on Earth at 5.10c.

Wild skiing on the Tacul north fac

Skiing Mont Blanc du Tacul – May 31 2014

Finished up our first guiding week in Chamonix France with Jasmin and Christina by skiing Mont Blanc du Tacul. The Mont Blanc du Tacul is the first section to the “Trois monts” route to the Mont Blanc summit and on it own still at righteous peak at 4260m.

Cosmiques couloir - Chamonix ski touring

Cosmiques Couloir – Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix Steep Skiing

Snuck in a lap on the Cosmiques Couloir off the Aiguille du Midi yesterday. 40cm of new snow in the high mountains around Chamonix made for pretty good skiing.

Rock Climbing Italy - Aosta Valley - Diretta Al Banano 4

Rock Climbing in Italy – Aosta Valley

Rain in Chamonix… Well lets just go Rock climbing in Italy!! Amazing how with a 20 minutes drive you can get to Italy where it is generally much sunnier and warmer than in Chamonix.

cosm1

Cosmiques Arete – Aiguille du Midi – Chamonix Mountaineering

Really no better way to starting a mountaineering week in Chamonix than with the Cosmiques Arete. Normally when you think of mountaineering you would think of a long walk from the valley, climbing the mountain then finally and long knee bashing decent back home. Not the Cosmiques Arete.

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Beautiful Morning in Chamonix France

Last night the peaks recieved some much need snow with the snow line coming down past the Aigulle du plan (2000m). Our objective of the Mont Blanc north face should be coming into shape nicely for next week.

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