Tantalus Range Mountaineering

Local, Remote, Epic Alpine

The Tantalus Range is the most convenient, stacked, beautiful mountaineering destination on the coast of BC.  With ample snow and rock routes close to the hut this area is truly the pinnacle of mountaineering in the Sea to Sky area.

There are 2 areas in the range: Lake Lovely Water where the Tantalus Hut is located and the higher alpine area where the Haberl Hut is located.

The climbing around the Tantalus hut is non glaciated and more scrambling than technical climbing.  The Haberl hut is surrounded by glaciers and all the routes involve snow/ice climbing and more technical rock.  We almost exclusively climb out of the Haberl Hut.

The Goods

Length: 1 or More Days

Starting point: Squamish, BC.

Summit Elevation: 2678M (8786ft)

Season: June 1 - September 1

Max. Guest to Guide Ratio: 2:1

Style of Climbing: Steep snow and ice

Cost: Starting at $825 per person

Scheduled Trips

August 3,4,5$1595

Per person

Book a Custom Trip

One day trip$1260

1 or 2 climbers

One day trip$1260

1 or 2 climbers

Three day trip$2650

1 climber

Add-Ons

Trip Photographer

Personal photographer to capture the trips epic moments.

What's Included

What's included

  • Guide’s fees
  • Technical gear rentals (harness, helmet, axe, crampons)
  • Photos of the climb 
Not Included

Not included

  • Hut fees
  • Personal gear rentals (ex. sleeping bag, mountaineering boots)
  • Pre and post valley accommodation
Gear list

Gear list

Personal Gear

  • Boots – full-leather, They should be well broken-in and waterproofed with snow seal or similar
  • Sleeping bag – good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius
  • Sleeping pad – therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
  • Backpack – 40-80 litre capacity
  • Summit-pack – 20-40 litre capacity (Optional)
  • Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
  • Light weight outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
  • Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
  • Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
  • Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
  • Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
  • Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
  • Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
  • Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
  • Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
  • Sunglasses –  UV block  with good eye coverage (1pr)
  • Ski goggles
  • Headlamp with new batteries
  • Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
  • Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
  • Sunscreen – minimum spf45
  • Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 liters
  • Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
  • Gaiters (1 pair) – Optional if built in paint gaiters or boot gaiters

Technical equipment (supplied by Altus if required)

  • Ice axe and technical climbing tool
  • Climbing harness – seat harness only
  • Helmet
  • 3 locking carabineers
  • 1 belay device
  • Crampons – adjusted to your boots (1 pair)
  • Knife – Swiss army style
  • Tape / Repair kit
  • Personal Compass and map
  • GPS
Prerequisites

Is this for you?

The number one questions we get from our guest is "are they ready for a multi-pitch?". 99.9% the answer is YES, our guide job is literally to push guests ability. If you have some minimum climbing and eagerness for a day of adventure we can make the day for you!

  • Previous rock climbing experience, in the gym or outside
  • Have top roped 5.6 as a minimum
  • Fitness to be moving for a minimum of 3 hours
  • Can hike 1 hour in gentle uphill terrain
  • Likes being outside

Itinerary

Day 1: Meet your guide at the  Squamish heli pad.  A 10-minute flight lands us a the Jim Haberl hut.  After settling into the hut, crampons go on and we tackle our first objective.,

Day - 2 to 5: Climb one or all of the classic peaks in the area, at the end of the trip we will fly back to Squamish returning around 3 or 4pm.

*Contact us for custom dates, duration and included costs

 

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tantalus Range mountaineering

Lake Lovely Water + Tantalus Hut Area

The Tantalus hut was built by the ACC in 1961 as a base for mountaineering in the Tantalus Range. It is located at the outflow end of Lake Lovely Water (elevation 1170m / 3850 feet) in the Tantalus Range in the Coast Mountains, approximately 64 km northwest of Vancouver. This site is located in Tantalus Provincial Park. The Tantalus Hut is a two-storey wooden structure with a large kitchen/dining room on the main floor and a separate sleeping loft above with foam mattresses for 20 people. While the Tantalus area offers limited simple hiking opportunities, the scenery at Lake Lovely Water alone is fabulous. In good weather, people enjoy swimming, boating and fishing. There is a wide variety of climbing and scrambling opportunities of various grades.  CITEE

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Lake Lovely Water Climbing Objectives

Omega Mountain: The closest peak to the hut, a short jaunt through the woods lead to the morainal slope and finally a summit right with difficulties to low 5th class.

Niobe Mountain: Often connected with its neighbouring peak Pelion. Similar start to omega, but with a quick glaciated section and easier rock to the summit! 3rd class scramble

omega,niobe

Alpha Mountain East Ridge 5.8: Arguably the best route in the range. A steep somewhat rough hike leads to East ridge of Alpha Mountain. Climbing up to 5.8 on a good granite ridge!

Alpha Mountain North West Ridge 4th class: Also used as the descent route from the East Ridge. A hike along the east side of lake lovely water take (or canoe) takes us through the alpine to the Serratus/Alpha col. 4th class scrambling

alpha

Haberl Hut Area

The Jim Haberl Hut is idea for first-time Mountaineers or hikers.  With luxuries of the newly constructed hut and a variety of terrain in the Tantalus Range this trip is suited for the first time mountaineer or experienced mountain climber.  Many challenges await just steps from the little-known paradise in the back yard of Vancouver and the Sea to Sky corridor.

An exhilarating helicopter ride brings you from sea level to 2000m and the Jim Haberl Hut. Crampons are a must as you step out of the hut and make your way toward the dayʼs objective: Serratus, Alpha, Dione orTantalus. Each offers its own unique challenge: rock, Ice, snow and mixed – the Tantalus Range has it all!

Jim Haberl Hut Tantalus

Haberl Hut climbing objectives

Mount Serratus: This is the closest peak to the hut with lots of options!  Our most common routes are: North Face, West Ridge, Crosmiques Arete

Mount Serratus - North face

serratus north face

 

 

Mount Serratus - Crosmiques Arete 5.9

Crosmiques arete
cros line

Mount Serratus - West rib

Serrrays

Mount Serratus - West face decent

Serratus W Face Rappel

Mount Dione and Tantalus

These are the crown jewels of the area, side by side peaks forms the impressive wall seen from the highway

Mount Dione SE Face

Mount Tantalus SE spur

Dione and Tantalus showing the lines we climbed

Still Have Questions or Concerns?

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions, concerns or requests on how we can make this the best trip ever!!!

About Ross Berg

Ross has guided, climbed and skied in the European Alps for the last several seasons. When he’s at home he can be found working as a heli ski guide in winters and climbing alpine rock routes in summer.

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