Mount Garibaldi Summit

Towering volcano climbing above the pacific

Located in Garibaldi Provincial Park , Mount Garibaldi, also know as Diamond Head, is the last peak in the chain of stratovolcanoes that extend up from California’s Mount Shasta.

Mount Garibaldi sports massive glaciers and a truly Olympian summit.  This two day guided trip entails a bivouac at the edge of the Warren Glacier, and a steep snow/ice climb up the northeast face of the mountain to its high point at 2678 meters (8,786 feet).

This is a grand outing that takes you literally from Sea to Sky! The vistas off the top of Mt Garibaldi looking down to the Howe Sound are next to none world wide.

The Goods

Length: 2 or More Days

Starting point: Squamish, BC.

Summit Elevation: 2678M (8786ft)

Season: June 1 - September 1

Max. Guest to Guide Ratio: 2:1

Style of Climbing: Steep snow and ice

Cost: Starting at $825 per person

Book a Custom Trip

Custom Date & Duration

Two day trip$1550

1 climber

Two day trip$1775

2 climbers

Add-Ons

Trip Photographer

Personal photographer to capture the trip's epic moments.

What's Included

What's included

  • Guide’s fees
  • Group equipment (pots, stove, fuel)
  • Technical gear rental (harness, helmet, axe, crampons)
  • Photos of the climb 
Not Included

Not included

  • Food (catering offered at $60/day/person)
  • Pre and post valley accommodation
  • Personal gear rental (ex. mountaineering boots, tent, sleeping bag, mat)
  • Transportation from Squamish to trailhead (4x4 road)*

* Provided at additional cost based on road conditions

Gear list

Gear list

Personal Gear

  • Mountain Boots – full-leather, They should be well broken-in and waterproofed with snow seal or similar
  • Sleeping bag – good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius
  • Sleeping pad – therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
  • Backpack – 40-80 litre capacity
  • Summit-pack – 20-40 litre capacity (Optional)
  • Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
  • Light weight outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
  • Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
  • Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
  • Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
  • Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
  • Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
  • Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
  • Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
  • Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
  • Sunglasses –  UV block  with good eye coverage (1pr)
  • Ski goggles
  • Headlamp with new batteries
  • Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
  • Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
  • Sunscreen – minimum SPF 45
  • Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 litre
  • Small “thermos” for hot drinks (optional)
  • Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
  • Gaiters (1 pair) – Optional if built in paint gaiters or boot gaiters
  • Personal eating utensils – cup, bowl, spoon
  • Knife – Swiss army style
  • Tape / Repair kit

Communal equipment: 

  • Light weight 2 or 3 person tent
  • Single burner stove and fuel*
  • Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)*
  • Compass and map
  • GPS

Technical equipment:

  • Ice axe and technical climbing tool*
  • Climbing harness – seat harness only*
  • Helmet*
  • 3 locking carabineers*
  • 1 belay device*
  • Crampons – adjusted to your boots (1 pair)*

*Supplied by Altus if required

Note: Gear requirements can change based on trip and conditions. 

Prerequisites

Is this for you?

The number one question we get from our guests is "are we ready for a multi-pitch?". 99.9% the answer is YES, a guide's job is literally to push their guest's ability. If you have minimum climbing experience and eagerness for a day of adventure we can design a trip for you!

  • Previous rock climbing experience, in the gym or outside
  • Have top roped 5.6 as a minimum
  • Fitness to be moving for a minimum of 3 hours
  • Can hike at least 1 hour in uphill terrain
  • Likes being outside

Sounds too basic for you? We got you covered - our team can guide anything from the easiest to nearly the hardest routes in Squamish.

Itinerary

Day 1: Meet your guide in Squamish, 4×4 approach to Brohm ridge, hike and scramble over the “Shark’s Fin”, set up camp on the moraines by the Warren Glacier, below Mt Garibaldi.  Glacier “warm up” walk to scope out the route for the next day.

Day 2: Alpine start, ascend the Warren glacier to the Northeast face of Mt Garibaldi. Climb ice and snow to 45 degrees and scramble the final slopes to the dramatic summit, overlooking the caldera and Howe Sound. Descend the same route off Garibaldi back to camp and down to Brohm Ridge the same day. Enjoy the view back to the summit of Garibaldi from Squamish in time for dinner.

*Contact us for custom dates, duration and included costs

The Objective

Mount Garibaldi Northeast face is a classic snow and ice route with climbing up to 45 degrees and a slew of technical crevasses and a bergschrund to cross.

Elevation gain from parking: 1500m

Elevation gain on the glacier: 600m

Climb steepness: 45 - 55 degrees

Distance (one way): 10km

 

North Face of Mt. Garibaldi
gari

Still Have Questions or Concerns?

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions, concerns or requests on how we can make this the best trip ever!!!

About Ross Berg

Ross has guided, climbed and skied in the European Alps for the last several seasons. When he’s at home he can be found working as a heli ski guide in winters and climbing alpine rock routes in summer.

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