Mt Waddington

Description

Mt Waddington is one of British Columbia’s most captivating mountains with many stories of heroic accents and attempts. An ascent of this (4019 m – 13186 ft) mountain requires the preparedness and skills needed to climb any of the great summits of the world. Our one or two week itinerary of the North West summit, is challenging and highly rewarding. Climbing Mt Waddington is a serious undertaking, as weather, altitude, terrain and exhaustion turn this trip into a true expedition. If you are planning to book this trip think of booking us earlier in the summer to properly prepare for such a colossal undertaking. This trip can also be done as a ski trip in the spring or early summer. If the summit is not in condition there are many fantastic ski tours and grand summits in the area to climb.

First Ascent: 1936 by Fritz Wiessner and William House

Who for

Experienced mountaineers, who have climbed several training peaks throughout the season prior to this expedition.  A high level of fitness is required for a successful attempt on Mt. Waddington. The shear grandness of this mountain requires good technical ability and patience to wait out any poor weather.

What’s Included

All costs while on expedition. Including helicopter flight, transportation, food, guiding fee and park permits.

IFMFA / ACMG certified Mountain Guide

Group equipment.

what’s Not included

Personal equipment

2017 Dates

April 29 – May 5

Cost

Dependent on group size, duration, and goals. Please contact us for details

Itinerary

Contact us for custom trips and duration:

Day 1: Leave Whistler and drive to the rugged outpost of Taa Lake, BC. Camp at the King’s Ranch on Bluff Lake

Day 2: Fly into base camp (weather permitting)

Day 3-10: Ascend training peaks and go for the NW Summit of Mt Waddington (The Wadd). (weather dependant)

Day 11 or 12 Fly out Day

13 Drive back to the Whistler or Squamish area

Equipment for spring ski trip:

Please contact Altus Mountain Guides for any questions or expert advice on the best equipment to have.  Let us know what you need on the list before you purchase any gear.  We rent gear or can advise you on the best gear to purchase. 

Personal Gear:

  • Ski touring skis
  • Touring Boots
  • Touring Ski poles
  • Skins
  • Probe
  • Shovel
  • Avalanche transceiver
  • Backpack – 25-40 liters capacity
  • Water Bottle (x 2) one litre
  • Extra insulated layer
  • Warm gloves
  • Thin gloves (if you have them they are great while skinning up)
  • Sunglasses – 1005 UV block (1pr)
  • Ski goggles
  • Sleeping bag – good to approx. -10 or -20 degrees Celsius
  • Sleeping pad – therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
  • Backpack – Or Duffle bag for flight in – 60-80 liters capacity, big enough to hold all gear for the trip plus some extra communal gear
  • Camp booties
  • Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
  • Outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
  • Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
  • Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
  • Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best for rope handling and ice axe use) (2 pairs)
  • Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
  • Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
  • Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
  • Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
  • Headlamp with extra set of batteries
  • Personal eating utensils – cup, bowl, spoon
  • Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, medications, etc.)
  • Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
  • Sunscreen – minimum spf45
  • Small “thermos” for hot drinks (optional)

Communal equipment:

  • Four Season 2 or 4 person tents (as necessary)
  • Single burner stoves and fuel (1 stove per 2-3 people)
  • Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)
  • Compass and map (Supplied by AMG)
  • GPS (Supplied by AMG)
  • Satellite phone (Supplied by AMG)
  • First Aid Kit (Supplied by AMG)
  • Knife – Swiss army style

Technical equipment:

  • (Supplied by AMG if required)
  • Ice ax
  • Climbing harness – seat harness only
  • Helmet
  • Crevasse Rescue Kit (3 locking carabiners, anchor webbing and 6mm cord)
  • 1 belay device
  • Crampons – adjusted to your boots (1 pair)
  • Ski Crampons

Summer Mountaineering Equipment 

Personal Gear:

  • Boots – full-leather or plastic mountaineering boots. If leather, they should be well broken-in and waterproofed
  • Sleeping bag – good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius
  • Sleeping pad – therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
  • Backpack – 60-80 liters capacity, big enough to hold all gear for the trip plus some extra communal gear
  • Summit-pack – 25-40 liters capacity (optional, your backpack can also work as a Summit pack)
  • Light weight hiking shoes or runners (1 pair optional for around camp and hike in)
  • Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
  • Outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
  • Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
  • Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
  • Gaiters (1 pair)
  • Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
  • Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best for rope handling and ice axe use) (2 pairs)
  • Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
  • Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
  • Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
  • Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
  • Sunglasses – 1005 UV block (1pr)
  • Ski goggles
  • Headlamp with extra set of batteries
  • Personal eating utensils – cup, bowl, spoon
  • Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, medications, etc.)
  • Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
  • Sunscreen – minimum spf30
  • Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 liters
  • Small “thermos” for hot drinks (optional)
  • Knife – Swiss army style
  • Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent to and from base camp

Communal equipment:

  • 4 Season 2 or 3 person tents (as necessary)
  • Single burner stoves and fuel (1 stove per 2-3 people)
  • Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)
  • Compass and map (Supplied by AMG)
  • GPS (Supplied by AMG)
  • Satellite phone (Supplied by AMG)
  • First Aid Kit (Supplied by AMG)

Technical equipment:

  • (Supplied by AMG if required)
  • Ice ax and technical climbing tool
  • Climbing harness – seat harness only
  • Helmet
  • 3 locking carabineers
  • 1 belay device
  • Crampons – adjusted to your boots (1 pair)