Trip Reports

Trip Reports

Mt Robson via Patterson Spur – Mouse Ridge and Kain Face.

Had the pleasure of summiting Mt. Robson July 30th with one client via the Patterson Spur to gain the Resplendent Robson col. The new climbers trail that starts at Kinney Lake, works nicely to access that side of the mountain. This took 10 hours with a fit client from the car park to the RR…

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Ski Pilot Mountain VIDEO

Above the Sea to Sky gondola in Squamish BC is a perfect quick alpine summit – The Sky pilot Mountain. Here is a quick edit to show what this climb is like. Filmed during an intro mountaineering course June 2015

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Squamish Multi Pitch Climbing – Sunset Strip 5.10d

Another classic day of Squamish multi pitch climbing! The summer of rock guiding keeps us plenty busy with many laps of the Chief, courses and trips in and around Squamish. How ever it always a treat to step the the technical level up and guide some of the harder multi pitch climbs!!

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Mt Garibaldi NE Ridge Summited!

Summited Mt Garibaldi NE Ridge yesterday via the North East Ridge with two clients. What a beautiful perfect summit day! No wind, warm temps and BLUE SKY! Was a pleasure to climb the mountain with long time Squamish residents Maren and Espen Bruun, of Paws in Hand. They didn’t stop smiling all day! The access…

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Mt. Clemenceau Ski Tour / Glamping trip.

Mt. Clemenceau Ski Tour:                                                                 Scott Thumbler and I just returned from a wonderful spring ski touring trip from May 11th to the 15th…

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Grand Wall guided today!

What a fun day out today on the Grand Wall in Squamish BC! Such a great route. Thanks for the day Eric! Was dry other than the step over to the start of the 5,10b traverse pitch and the upper 5.10a slab pitch had one wet foot hold. Other than that the rest of the route was totally dry even the word. It’s good to go!

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Spearhead Traverse

Spring is coming.. well it might feel like it has been here all winter down in the valley. The bikes are out, and the rock climbing is prime.   However up high in the mountains, up higher above the ski lifts its still winter. With a good looking snowpack in the alpine with a snow…

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Mount Assiniboine North Ridge Trip Report

Last week I (Ross) wrapped up an excellent alpine blast far east of my Coastal town. First stop was the Bugaboos for 5 days of alpine rock with Cheryl from California (see previous blog), A lap of Mount Temple with Shannon from Vancouver and to finish off an ascent of Mount Assiniboine North Ridge with Lance from Calgary/UK.

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Mount Tricouni North Ridge- Trip Report

Earlier this week myself and fellow guide Brent Phillips climbed Mount Tricouni via the North Ridge. I have climbed this route and a few other feature a couple times now and I really recommend visiting this peak, the access is great, beautiful setting and the north ridge is interesting and challenging on good rock. A great day trip.

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Abbot Pass and Bugaboos Trip

What a wonderful week of guiding with perfect weather! Starting off at the Abbot Hut with a summit of Mount Victoria and Finishing in the Bugaboos. What more could one ask for in a week of mountaineering. We climbed over 12000’ feet in 5 days and enjoyed 4 beautiful summits. With the porters taking our stuff to the hut and having all the food made by Rosie it all came together to become a fun trip. Look forward to next year with the same guys on another adventure into the mountains.

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Mount Gimli South Ridge

The Mount Gimli SW ridge is straight up world class. 5.9 steep, juggy climbing on perfect interesting rock. Pretty crazy really how with such a good route there is really no one in the area! …except lots of friendly goats!.

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Mount Garibaldi NE Face – Trip Report July 4th

On Friday the birthday of America our guest from Chicago snuck in an Ascent of Mount Garibaldi via the NE face. Our original plan was to climb it in our normal fashion of 2 days. One day to the cam on the moraines just past brohm ridge and the second day climbing the peak and returning home. The weather forecast kept looking worse and worse for our summit days so we opted for an early start and going for the peak in one day before the weather came.

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University Wall the “Shadow” and Roman Chimneys 5.12d – Trip Report

What a great day out on one of my favourite routes on the planet! University wall in Squamish. It was a battle but a pleasure to get to climb the University Wall in Squamish with my good friend Josh Lavigne. Other than the typical early season wet spots of the cracks it was a perfect day out. Finishing with the Roman Chimneys makes for one of the best classic long days of multi Squamish has to offer.

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Pointe Lachenal, Haruld e Maud 5.10 – Chamonix Rock Climbing

Rock climbing at almost 4000m high above broken expansive glaciers… in early June. Ill take it! Chamonix is really just unbelievable when it come to the access potential. A 1 hours walk from the Aiguille du midi life you have a life times worth of epic alpine rock climbing. From 5 to way to many pitchs. Yesterday I teamed up with American mountain guide Danny Ulhmann and bad ass alpine steep skier Gulia Monego to climb the Pointe Lachenal

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Mt Habrich – Summit Trip May 31, 2014

What a fun day out on Mt Habrich! Looks like we may have been the first to summit Mt Habrich this season. There is still lots of early season snow around on the approach and some of the ledges on the west face. We acceded the south face mostly following the route Life on Earth at 5.10c.

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Skiing Mont Blanc du Tacul – May 31 2014

Finished up our first guiding week in Chamonix France with Jasmin and Christina by skiing Mont Blanc du Tacul. The Mont Blanc du Tacul is the first section to the “Trois monts” route to the Mont Blanc summit and on it own still at righteous peak at 4260m.

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How to belay with a munter hitch – VIDEO

Paul McSorley is at it again showing us some climbing skillz. “How to belay with a Munter Hitch”. A crucial skill to have in case you ever drop or forget your belay device on a multi pitch climb. Dont forget to turn up the video quality to HD. Paul looks good in HD!

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Spring skiing is on!!!

  We’ve been getting tons of fresh powder here on the Coast from the Duffey Lake to the Whistler backcountry.  The tree skiing is all time right now so come join us for a ride you will never forget!    

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Squamish rock climbing is on!

It’s been a great week for rock climbing in Sqaumish! Sunny skies and fresh temps have dried out single and multipitch climbs from Murrin to the Bluffs. Spring is in the air so come on down and get some!

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Angles Crest 5.10c 13 Pitches – January 27th!!!!! yah-Rock Climbing Squamish.

While we wait for this next storm to come in tonight we took the oppertunity to head to Squamish for a route on the might Squamish Chief!! Pretty wild right now how dry the peak is. Normally only a few select route with the right sun and wind exposrue would be possible to climb during the winter month but with this prolonged dry spell and warm temps it has opened the door to to soo many others.

We climbed one of the more classic moderate long routes Angles Crest. 13 pitches of up to 5.10c climbing up alpine like ridges and faces.

Not bad for January 27th!

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AST 2 Course Whistler / Duffy Lake Road

Avalanche Training Course. AST 2 Course Whistler / Duffy Lake Road. Warming up in the sun at the top of the run “Honey Bronzed and Very Desirable” Duffy Lake area, this past weekend on our first AST 2 course of the season.

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Crevasse Camping – Mt Garibaldi

Last week got to go up onto Mt Garibaldi again but in a bit of a storm…..did snow good old Crevasse Camping!
Our clients Doug and Tom didn’t bail just because of a little poor weather. Gotta like the spirit! Only snow 40cm on us overnight. Was a joy getting up in the night twice to clean the snow off our collapsing tent… The crevasse was the best place to camp out of the howling wind.

Fun trip to be out in a real storm.

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Mt Garibaldi Guide – Altus Mountain Guides

One of our last trips to Mt. Garibaldi. Still managed to get out on the Mountain in September. With 50 to 80cm of new snow fall on the mountain it made it difficult travel on the glacier. Especially with all the crevasses just covered up on the glacier. With the owner of Summit Co in Oklahoma,

http://edmondsummitco.com

we still managed to have a great time and see some fantastic views!

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Trad Lead Climbing Course – Squamish

Was fun to get out with two clients on a Trad Lead Climbing Course in Squamish.
We started with just leading and then we progressed into leading on gear. Good job Jodie and Drew! Great to see people on their first Rock climbing leads and first traditional lead climbing climbs!

Keep it up!

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Glacier National Park Travel Guide – Weekend Warrior Wednesday – August 28th

Glacier National Park Travel Guide – Altus Mountain Guides
Warriors, unite!

This week we honor the diversity of our fellow Weekend Warriors. I’m talking about all the different kinds of adventurers and explorers out there who tackle the same mountains, trails, ice walls, and boulders with the same unbreakable will and indescribable joy. Students, tour guides, scientists, and even dogs–all Warriors and all to be celebrated!

Check out their pics below and then hit the jump to their blogs for more awesome photos and stories!

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Bugaboo Climbing

Bugaboo Climbing. !!! Again we got to do a trip to the fabulous Bugaboo Mountains! On or trip we got to climb East Post Spire, Bugaboo Spire, Pidgeon Spire, Pidgeon Feathers and Crescent Towers! The weather was great for us except for one day where the rocks started buzzing and it rained on us. Thankfully we still managed to climb a route on Snowpatch Spire. The quality of Bugaboo climbing is a place that truly has top be visited to believed. Every-time I go it never ceases to amaze…!

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Mt. Garibaldi – Squamish BC – Summited!

July 16th was a great day to Summit Mt. Garibaldi!! Perfect weather and great travel conditions made for a fantastic summit. We hung out for almost an hour enjoying the sun and views from the top. We even had the Jet boil along to make coffee on the top of the mountain. Both Frank and Jeff did a great job for being beginner mountaineers.

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Tantalus Range Mountaineering

More Tantalus action!! I was a day behind our last Tantalus guided trip with 2 guest, Sean from here in Squamish and Heather from Calgary. We flew in for a few days of instruction and peak ascents. Along with Barbequed steaks at 2000m, great socializing in the comfy Haberl hut we also managed to stand on the top of Mount Serratus, Dione and Finally Mount Tantalus. Thanks for the great trip guys!!!

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Tantalus Range at the Haberl Hut for 4 days!

This summer we have been lucky to have our 4th trip to the Haberl Hut in the Tantalus Range already. It is such a great place and a fantastic teaching venue. The access from the hut compares to the European access with climbing just steps from the hut. We got to climb Mt. Serratus, Mt. Alfa and Mt. Dione. Conditions were close to perfect with good overnight freezes and great travel on the snow and rock. The rock was free on snow and the weather was fantastic until the last day when a thunderstorm chased us out early. Thanks to all the guests and guides for making this trip happen!

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Squamish Buttress

“ We spent two fabulous days on the wall with Crosby. We had zero multi pitch experience prior, but we were comfortable with single pitch and really, really wanted to get on the Chief. Crosby was very patient and taught us everything on our first day together, and we tackled the Chief on the second day. It was AMAZING! Thank you so very much!! “

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Eisenhower Tower 5.5, Castle Mountain

This past weekend we got out to Castle Mountain located between Banff and Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies. A 4 hour hike/sramble leads to the Castle Mountain Hut high on the goat plateau. This was my first trip to this hut and was soo impressed! The hut it self is nothing more than a…

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Fred Beckey climbing at Nightmare Rock!

Fred Beckey still continues to be an inspiration to the climbing world. At 90 something it is truly awesome to see the detection and love of climbing still alive. Gives us all something to look forward to. The grandfather of the first accent world on Granddaddy over hang why not! Always a pleasure to get out and climb with Fred Beckey!

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Tantalus Range Haberl Hut again!

What a great trip to one of the greatest destinations on the Coast Range of BC! The Tantalus Range and the Jim Haberl Hut is next to none for a mountaineering destination. One of the coast range’s best kept secrets!

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Jim Haberl Hut Tantalus Range

Jim Haberl Hut Tantalus Range, what a place! Over the last two days we had the pleasure of guiding up in one of our favorite locations in Canada. For a first time mountain experience it was the perfect place to get out into the mountains, especially with the luxury of the lovely Jim Haberl Hut.…

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Ski Touring Whistler Blackcomb – Disease Ridge

A great instructional ski mountaineering day in the Blackcomb Backcountry! Ski touring Whistler Blackcomb can be a blast even in the spring. Last weekend we managed to get out for some ski mountaineering on Disease Ridge. With the spring conditions and 5 cm of new snow it still fun skiing. We didn’t get lot of vertical in but with the use of the rope we got to enter into some steep terrain!

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Canadian Rockies Climbing – Paper Chase 5.11a, Guides Rock

Back up to Guides rock just outside of Banff in the Canadian Rockies this time of the 5.11a “Paper Chase”.  At 5.11a this route packs a punch with tricky gear, steep technical climbing and wild exposure.  The rock on this face never ceases to amaze!!  Absolutely world class rock. Never mind the ticket to France…

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Canadian Rockies Climbing – Sea of Dream 5.10d, Guides Rock

With tempertures pushing 30c my trip in the Canadian Rockies Mountains where amazing!! We managed to sneak in a late afternoon ascent of the Banff multi pitch classic “Sea of Dreams” 5.10d. The 6 pitch bolted sport route when down in a couple hours of beautiful lime stone climbing in the sun! Here are some pics.

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Tantalus Range Skiing

Skiing in the Tantalus Range If you are lucky enough to nail the weather the skiing in the Tantalus is amazing! Imagine a mini Alaska within minutes of town.  Big alpine faces, spines, couloirs and ripping glacier make this the place to be. We offer either day trips into the area via helicopter or overnight trips…

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Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine at the Callaghan Lodge

Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine were with Altus Mountain Guides Crosby and Ross this week at the Callaghan Lodge. What a great place to spend the week with some top doctors for the completion of the Diploma In Mountain Medicine. All graduates of the winter program had already completed the summer module last September in…

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Squamish Rock Climbing is in full swing

The last three weeks in Squamish have been blessed with sunny skies and temperatures more typical of summer than early spring.  Climbs of all lengths and difficulties are getting done, from the boulders of the Grand Wall to the heights of the Angel’s Crest.  With such an early start to the rock climbing season, this…

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Whistler Backcountry Ski Touring

Here are some photos from this winter of our Ski Touring trips in the Backcountry near Whistler. What a winter! Link to Whistler Ski Touring: http://altusmountainguides.com/ski/backcountry-touring/whistler-3/   Whistler Backcountry Ski Touring. Go Whistler Backcountry Ski Touring and you will experience what Whistler really has to offer. Regardless of your experience, if you desire a more remote and rewarding ski…

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2013 Squamish Mountain Festival July 11-15th

    2013 Squamish Mountain Festival July 11-15th A Celebration of Climbing Culture July 19th, 2013 – 12:00am – July 21st, 2013 – 11:59pm When it comes to gravity-defying climbing, bouldering and huge mountain culture, no-where delivers it better than Squamish, British Columbia. The sixth-annual event, highlighting the world-famous climbing culture and all those who are on…

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AST 1 Whistler

AST 1 Whistler! Hey Backcountry Ladies! we have a ladies only avalanche skills training course (AST 1) happening March 2,3 in Whistler. If you haven’t taken an avalanche course yet this is your chance to get out with a small group of backcountry ladies to learn some skills. Only 2 spots left!! FACEBOOK LINK 

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Blackcomb Backcountry Touring December 24 2012

Blackcomb Backcountry Touring! For Christmas all the good backcountry skiers received 2 weeks of mind blowing conditions and weather. Good stability, blower powder and blue skies. Its doesn’t get much better!!! December 24 Tim W and I got out into the Whistler Backcountry for a day of ski touring. We headed off the Blackcomb mountain, first…

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Cascade Falls, Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing

Every year when the temperature starts to drop all the ice climber start looking around to see if ice has started to form up on the cliff faces. Some years the ice hardly forms and other you can find beautiful climbable blue ice everywhere!! This year is one of those. Conditions are amazing, ice is everywhere.

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CSMM Pre Course Training now offered.

If you are planning to take the Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine Diploma Course this  pre training could help you out. http://altusmountainguides.com/learn/mountaineering-learn/canadian-society-of-mountain-medicine-pre-course-training-winter-and-summer/ Check out the summer course: http://altusmountainguides.com/blog/canadian-society-of-mountain-medicine-training-week/  

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What an awesome day in the Cariboos today! 50cm of fresh snow and blue skies! Perfect!

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Ice Climbing in the Canadian Rockies

  We were in Banff last week for the Mountain Film Festival and managed to sneak out for a few pitches of Ice climbing.  Conditions were quite mild owing to a Chinook passing along the front ranges but we headed up to the Stanley Headwall, finding tons of climbable ice in this refrigerator box of…

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Welcome Christina Lusti to the Altus Mountain Guides team!! VIDEO

We are pleased to welcome pro skier and ACMG guide Christina Lusti to the Altus team!! Christina is a former Olympic ski racer, competing in the 2006 Olympic games now professional big mountain skier and ACMG assistant ski guide. She will be leading ski touring trips around Whistler and running some womens big mountain freeride courses in the spring. Keep your eyes peeled for her on the slopes, good luck keeping up!

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Apron Climb Diedre 5.8 ***

Earlier this spring I had this fun day of climbing on Diedre with Kendall and Nikki.  Was the perfect Squamish climbing day on the Apron.  Long friendly corners on splitter granite stone for 7 pitches. First climbed in 1962 by the Squamish local Jim Sinclair and the late Jim Baldwin. A truly lovely rock climb…

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Mt Garibaldi North East Face

Just got back from a two day trip up to the Summit of Mt. Garibaldi via the North East face from Brohm Ridge. What a treat to get into the high alpine in OCTOBER! Conditions on Garibaldi where next to perfect for a guided trip to 2670m or 8760ft. Last night on Mt. Garibaldi there…

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Showcase Spire, Whistler – Blackcomb, BC

An outing on Showcase Spire off of Blackcomb Mountain is one of the best mini adventures imaginable!  With a civilized approach and an ambiance that makes you wonder where this beauty has been hiding all your life, Showcase Spire is not to be missed!  I had the pleasure of climbing this gem on the weekend…

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Teddy Bear’s Picnic

  Yet another great day of climbing here in Squamish.  I joined forces with Rockies crushers Josh Lavigne, Simon Meiss and Chris Brazeau to throw a lap on Teddy Bear’s Picnic.  First established by Jeremy Blumel and Adam Diamond and climbed integral a few years back by Will Standhope, Teddy Bear’s hosts some of the…

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Squamish Buttress and Smoke Bluff rock climbing

Over the last two day I had the pleasure to rock guide the Classic 5.10c Squamish Buttress rock climb and in the Smoke Bluffs. The splitter granite stone and Howe Sound vistas are still as stunning as ever. The love of Squamish rock climbing is never ending. What a treat to do some rock guiding…

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Stand Up Paddle Climbing Adventure

Today I had the pleasure to guide the sea cliffs of Howe Sound. Like waking up from a dream the view around us at the Squamish Spit was pristine and misty. Garibaldi Mountain and the Chief gave us alpine glow and magic vistas first thing in the morning. This was the environment we paddled in,…

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Mt. Habrich Climbing and Flying!

Tony Richardson and I profited from this bombastic high pressure system and managed to tick a wold class climb and flight right above the village of Squamish. Our friend Nathan dropped us of at the boulders on the Stawamus Forest Service road and after a three hour approach we locked horns with Mt. Habrich’s west…

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Squamish Buttress 5.10c

What a beautiful day to be rock climbing and guiding the ultra classic Squamish Buttress! The day was perfect. Endless splitter cracks to the top of the Squamish Chief.  Rock climbing at it’s finest and only 5.10c.   photos by: Crosby Johnston

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The Wedge Mountain Whistler BC

Had an amazing trip up to The Wedge with Helen Beynon, we climbed the uber classic NE Arete.  The route was in fine condition and the day was sublime.  I can’t think of a better way to spend a couple days mountaineering in Whistler! Wedge Mountain 2892 m (9488 ft) photos: Paul McSorley

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Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine Diploma Course

We just finished up a fantastic week with the Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine working as instructors and evaluators for this fledgeling program.  Spending four days in Whistler and one rockclimbing in Squamish we capped the week off with two days mountaineering in the unforgettable Tantalus Range.  The weather was impeccable and the doctors got…

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Mt. Robson 3,954m , 12,972ft, Grade IV Kain Face Summit Attempt

Mt. Robson 3,954m , 12,972ft, Grade IV Kain Face. Mt Robson Kain Face Attempt.

On August 27th Ross Berg, Paul McSorley and I used Yellowhead Helicopters to fly into the Dome of Mt. Robson with five clients. Yellowhead Helicopter’s 206 Pilot did a great job flying us into the 3150m Dome landing in 4 flights. What a great place to be flown into to start a guided trip. We were hoping to guide the trip from the highway, however there was poor weather in the forecast so we decided to just fly everyone into the Dome bellow the Kain Face of Mt Robson. We were not able to sneak up to the summit before the poor weather started. The winds increased to over 100km per hour and it ended up snowing about 40cm. All and all it turned out to be a fantastic guided trip with some inspirational guests

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Cosmiques Arete Chamonix and Point Lachenal

Ross Berg and I (Crosby Johnston) had a great day out guiding the Point Lachenal and the Cosmiques Arete in Chamonix just steps away from the Aiguille du Midi Chamonix Mont Blanc: 3842m above sea level.  Both climbs are ultra classic route in a stunning location.  Photos don’t justify or come anywhere close to capturing the…

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Mont Blanc Summit trip.

Yesterday Altus Mountain Guides Guided Mont Blanc. We got to the Summit at 930 am July 4th. The conditions on the mountain were near perfect. One day earlier people had to turn around because of Avalanche hazard on the Mountain.  Today the weather is poor with rain in the Valley and clouds covering the Summit.…

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