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Whistler Conditions Update – November

After last weeks social media bombardment, it won’t come as a surprise that the early season conditions in Whistler Blackcomb have been pretty spectacular. Deep turns and face shots have filled my Instagram feed and for once, none of it was exaggerated. It really has been that good! Moisture from the south combined with cold…

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Mt Robson via Patterson Spur – Mouse Ridge and Kain Face.

Had the pleasure of summiting Mt. Robson July 30th with one client via the Patterson Spur to gain the Resplendent Robson col. The new climbers trail that starts at Kinney Lake, works nicely to access that side of the mountain. This took 10 hours with a fit client from the car park to the RR…

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Ski Pilot Mountain VIDEO

Above the Sea to Sky gondola in Squamish BC is a perfect quick alpine summit – The Sky pilot Mountain. Here is a quick edit to show what this climb is like. Filmed during an intro mountaineering course June 2015

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Squamish Multi Pitch Climbing – Sunset Strip 5.10d

Another classic day of Squamish multi pitch climbing! The summer of rock guiding keeps us plenty busy with many laps of the Chief, courses and trips in and around Squamish. How ever it always a treat to step the the technical level up and guide some of the harder multi pitch climbs!!

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Mt Garibaldi NE Ridge Summited!

Summited Mt Garibaldi NE Ridge yesterday via the North East Ridge with two clients. What a beautiful perfect summit day! No wind, warm temps and BLUE SKY! Was a pleasure to climb the mountain with long time Squamish residents Maren and Espen Bruun, of Paws in Hand. They didn’t stop smiling all day! The access…

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Mt. Clemenceau Ski Tour / Glamping trip.

Mt. Clemenceau Ski Tour:                                                                 Scott Thumbler and I just returned from a wonderful spring ski touring trip from May 11th to the 15th…

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Grand Wall guided today!

What a fun day out today on the Grand Wall in Squamish BC! Such a great route. Thanks for the day Eric! Was dry other than the step over to the start of the 5,10b traverse pitch and the upper 5.10a slab pitch had one wet foot hold. Other than that the rest of the route was totally dry even the word. It’s good to go!

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Spring is here! Rock climbing in Squamish

  The skiing has been incredible lately and so has the rock climbing!  We are expecting a great spell of high pressure on the Coast for the next week so dust off your rock shoes and join us for a Trad course, Rock Rescue refresher or a Multipitch climb up the Chief. Bring on Springtime!

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Spearhead Traverse

Spring is coming.. well it might feel like it has been here all winter down in the valley. The bikes are out, and the rock climbing is prime.   However up high in the mountains, up higher above the ski lifts its still winter. With a good looking snowpack in the alpine with a snow…

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Ice Season is Here!

The Winter season is underway and while the snow continues to fall, the ice is plumping up like a Christmas Turkey.  We’ve had some really great days already in Whistler and Squamish thanks to some well timed cold snaps.  Ice clinics and courses are happening on the Duffey Lake road and if the forecast holds…

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Mount Assiniboine North Ridge Trip Report

Last week I (Ross) wrapped up an excellent alpine blast far east of my Coastal town. First stop was the Bugaboos for 5 days of alpine rock with Cheryl from California (see previous blog), A lap of Mount Temple with Shannon from Vancouver and to finish off an ascent of Mount Assiniboine North Ridge with Lance from Calgary/UK.

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Mount Tricouni North Ridge- Trip Report

Earlier this week myself and fellow guide Brent Phillips climbed Mount Tricouni via the North Ridge. I have climbed this route and a few other feature a couple times now and I really recommend visiting this peak, the access is great, beautiful setting and the north ridge is interesting and challenging on good rock. A great day trip.

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Abbot Pass and Bugaboos Trip

What a wonderful week of guiding with perfect weather! Starting off at the Abbot Hut with a summit of Mount Victoria and Finishing in the Bugaboos. What more could one ask for in a week of mountaineering. We climbed over 12000’ feet in 5 days and enjoyed 4 beautiful summits. With the porters taking our stuff to the hut and having all the food made by Rosie it all came together to become a fun trip. Look forward to next year with the same guys on another adventure into the mountains.

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Mount Gimli South Ridge

The Mount Gimli SW ridge is straight up world class. 5.9 steep, juggy climbing on perfect interesting rock. Pretty crazy really how with such a good route there is really no one in the area! …except lots of friendly goats!.

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Mount Garibaldi NE Face – Trip Report July 4th

On Friday the birthday of America our guest from Chicago snuck in an Ascent of Mount Garibaldi via the NE face. Our original plan was to climb it in our normal fashion of 2 days. One day to the cam on the moraines just past brohm ridge and the second day climbing the peak and returning home. The weather forecast kept looking worse and worse for our summit days so we opted for an early start and going for the peak in one day before the weather came.

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Grand Wall Squamish Rock Climb 5.11a

What a beautiful day out on the grand wall in Squamish. The classic line up the wall goes at 5.11a with the 2 bolt ladders. Was fun to snap some photos of Kinley Aitken on Perry’s Layback. Squamish is such a great place to climb, with seemingly endless multipitch climbs only 5 minuets from the…

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My dog Suzie Summits Sky Pilot Mountain

After lunch my loyal dog Suzie and I headed out to climb Sky Pilot Mountain. We left the truck at about 1:30 after driving up the access road. This takes longer than just going up the Gondola. We were on the Summit of Sky Pilot by about 430. Suzie did great on the scrambling 4th class pitches and the last headwall to the summit. Glad she was good with the sit and stay commands. Round trip we were about 5 hours total. What a great way to take the dog for a hike! Dogaineering at it’s finest! The top of Sky Pilot has fantastic views!

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University Wall the “Shadow” and Roman Chimneys 5.12d – Trip Report

What a great day out on one of my favourite routes on the planet! University wall in Squamish. It was a battle but a pleasure to get to climb the University Wall in Squamish with my good friend Josh Lavigne. Other than the typical early season wet spots of the cracks it was a perfect day out. Finishing with the Roman Chimneys makes for one of the best classic long days of multi Squamish has to offer.

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Pointe Lachenal, Haruld e Maud 5.10 – Chamonix Rock Climbing

Rock climbing at almost 4000m high above broken expansive glaciers… in early June. Ill take it! Chamonix is really just unbelievable when it come to the access potential. A 1 hours walk from the Aiguille du midi life you have a life times worth of epic alpine rock climbing. From 5 to way to many pitchs. Yesterday I teamed up with American mountain guide Danny Ulhmann and bad ass alpine steep skier Gulia Monego to climb the Pointe Lachenal

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Mt Habrich – Summit Trip May 31, 2014

What a fun day out on Mt Habrich! Looks like we may have been the first to summit Mt Habrich this season. There is still lots of early season snow around on the approach and some of the ledges on the west face. We acceded the south face mostly following the route Life on Earth at 5.10c.

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Skiing Mont Blanc du Tacul – May 31 2014

Finished up our first guiding week in Chamonix France with Jasmin and Christina by skiing Mont Blanc du Tacul. The Mont Blanc du Tacul is the first section to the “Trois monts” route to the Mont Blanc summit and on it own still at righteous peak at 4260m.

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Sky Pilot Mountain – Trip photos

Sky Pilot Mountain. What a fun trip into the Shannon Creek drainage above the new Sea to Sky Gondola! Despite the odd shower it was a great trip instructing navigation and traveling up to Sky Pilot Mountain over 3 days. Early season spring conditions still exist in the backcountry with lots of soft snow still…

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How to belay with a munter hitch – VIDEO

Paul McSorley is at it again showing us some climbing skillz. “How to belay with a Munter Hitch”. A crucial skill to have in case you ever drop or forget your belay device on a multi pitch climb. Dont forget to turn up the video quality to HD. Paul looks good in HD!

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Squamish Rock is ready!

Rock climbing is happening right now in Squamish and throughout the Sea to Sky corridor. Unsettled spring weather is giving way to sunny skies and the rock is drying out faster than you can say: “On Belay.”

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Spearhead Traverse

We just returned from a 3-day Spearhead Traverse trip with gorgeous conditions.  Cruising down 1,000-foot powder to corn runs, bootpacking up an airy ridge, and watching the sun set over the Coast mountains were just some of the highlights.  Thank you to everyone for your hard work and making it a fabulous trip to remember!…

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Spring skiing is on!!!

  We’ve been getting tons of fresh powder here on the Coast from the Duffey Lake to the Whistler backcountry.  The tree skiing is all time right now so come join us for a ride you will never forget!    

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Squamish rock climbing is on!

It’s been a great week for rock climbing in Sqaumish! Sunny skies and fresh temps have dried out single and multipitch climbs from Murrin to the Bluffs. Spring is in the air so come on down and get some!

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Angles Crest 5.10c 13 Pitches – January 27th!!!!! yah-Rock Climbing Squamish.

While we wait for this next storm to come in tonight we took the oppertunity to head to Squamish for a route on the might Squamish Chief!! Pretty wild right now how dry the peak is. Normally only a few select route with the right sun and wind exposrue would be possible to climb during the winter month but with this prolonged dry spell and warm temps it has opened the door to to soo many others.

We climbed one of the more classic moderate long routes Angles Crest. 13 pitches of up to 5.10c climbing up alpine like ridges and faces.

Not bad for January 27th!

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AST Avalanche Course

AST Avalanche Course. Just wrapped up our 6th avlanache couse of the year!! This time on sleds. 40cm of blower powder and blue skies, looks like winter is getting back to normal!

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Sea To Sky Ice Climbing

It’s been a great start to the Sea To Sky Ice Climbing season so far! We’ve been out ice climbing from the canyons of Vancouver to the big country of the Duffey Lake and everywhere in between. Sharpen up your tools or borrow a pair from us and come on down for some ice bashing fun! If the snow isn’t cooperating you can still get out and enjoy winter, just strap some crampons to your feet and start kickin’!

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AST 2 Course Whistler / Duffy Lake Road

Avalanche Training Course. AST 2 Course Whistler / Duffy Lake Road. Warming up in the sun at the top of the run “Honey Bronzed and Very Desirable” Duffy Lake area, this past weekend on our first AST 2 course of the season.

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Crevasse Camping – Mt Garibaldi

Last week got to go up onto Mt Garibaldi again but in a bit of a storm…..did snow good old Crevasse Camping!
Our clients Doug and Tom didn’t bail just because of a little poor weather. Gotta like the spirit! Only snow 40cm on us overnight. Was a joy getting up in the night twice to clean the snow off our collapsing tent… The crevasse was the best place to camp out of the howling wind.

Fun trip to be out in a real storm.

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Mt Garibaldi Guide – Altus Mountain Guides

One of our last trips to Mt. Garibaldi. Still managed to get out on the Mountain in September. With 50 to 80cm of new snow fall on the mountain it made it difficult travel on the glacier. Especially with all the crevasses just covered up on the glacier. With the owner of Summit Co in Oklahoma,

http://edmondsummitco.com

we still managed to have a great time and see some fantastic views!

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Trad Lead Climbing Course – Squamish

Was fun to get out with two clients on a Trad Lead Climbing Course in Squamish.
We started with just leading and then we progressed into leading on gear. Good job Jodie and Drew! Great to see people on their first Rock climbing leads and first traditional lead climbing climbs!

Keep it up!

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Glacier National Park Travel Guide – Weekend Warrior Wednesday – August 28th

Glacier National Park Travel Guide – Altus Mountain Guides
Warriors, unite!

This week we honor the diversity of our fellow Weekend Warriors. I’m talking about all the different kinds of adventurers and explorers out there who tackle the same mountains, trails, ice walls, and boulders with the same unbreakable will and indescribable joy. Students, tour guides, scientists, and even dogs–all Warriors and all to be celebrated!

Check out their pics below and then hit the jump to their blogs for more awesome photos and stories!

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Bugaboo Climbing

Bugaboo Climbing. !!! Again we got to do a trip to the fabulous Bugaboo Mountains! On or trip we got to climb East Post Spire, Bugaboo Spire, Pidgeon Spire, Pidgeon Feathers and Crescent Towers! The weather was great for us except for one day where the rocks started buzzing and it rained on us. Thankfully we still managed to climb a route on Snowpatch Spire. The quality of Bugaboo climbing is a place that truly has top be visited to believed. Every-time I go it never ceases to amaze…!

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Mt. Garibaldi – Squamish BC – Summited!

July 16th was a great day to Summit Mt. Garibaldi!! Perfect weather and great travel conditions made for a fantastic summit. We hung out for almost an hour enjoying the sun and views from the top. We even had the Jet boil along to make coffee on the top of the mountain. Both Frank and Jeff did a great job for being beginner mountaineers.

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Tantalus Range Mountaineering

More Tantalus action!! I was a day behind our last Tantalus guided trip with 2 guest, Sean from here in Squamish and Heather from Calgary. We flew in for a few days of instruction and peak ascents. Along with Barbequed steaks at 2000m, great socializing in the comfy Haberl hut we also managed to stand on the top of Mount Serratus, Dione and Finally Mount Tantalus. Thanks for the great trip guys!!!

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Tantalus Range at the Haberl Hut for 4 days!

This summer we have been lucky to have our 4th trip to the Haberl Hut in the Tantalus Range already. It is such a great place and a fantastic teaching venue. The access from the hut compares to the European access with climbing just steps from the hut. We got to climb Mt. Serratus, Mt. Alfa and Mt. Dione. Conditions were close to perfect with good overnight freezes and great travel on the snow and rock. The rock was free on snow and the weather was fantastic until the last day when a thunderstorm chased us out early. Thanks to all the guests and guides for making this trip happen!

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Squamish Buttress

“ We spent two fabulous days on the wall with Crosby. We had zero multi pitch experience prior, but we were comfortable with single pitch and really, really wanted to get on the Chief. Crosby was very patient and taught us everything on our first day together, and we tackled the Chief on the second day. It was AMAZING! Thank you so very much!! “

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Eisenhower Tower 5.5, Castle Mountain

This past weekend we got out to Castle Mountain located between Banff and Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies. A 4 hour hike/sramble leads to the Castle Mountain Hut high on the goat plateau. This was my first trip to this hut and was soo impressed! The hut it self is nothing more than a…

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Fred Beckey climbing at Nightmare Rock!

Fred Beckey still continues to be an inspiration to the climbing world. At 90 something it is truly awesome to see the detection and love of climbing still alive. Gives us all something to look forward to. The grandfather of the first accent world on Granddaddy over hang why not! Always a pleasure to get out and climb with Fred Beckey!

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Tantalus Range Haberl Hut again!

What a great trip to one of the greatest destinations on the Coast Range of BC! The Tantalus Range and the Jim Haberl Hut is next to none for a mountaineering destination. One of the coast range’s best kept secrets!

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Jim Haberl Hut Tantalus Range

Jim Haberl Hut Tantalus Range, what a place! Over the last two days we had the pleasure of guiding up in one of our favorite locations in Canada. For a first time mountain experience it was the perfect place to get out into the mountains, especially with the luxury of the lovely Jim Haberl Hut.…

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Ski Touring Whistler Blackcomb – Disease Ridge

A great instructional ski mountaineering day in the Blackcomb Backcountry! Ski touring Whistler Blackcomb can be a blast even in the spring. Last weekend we managed to get out for some ski mountaineering on Disease Ridge. With the spring conditions and 5 cm of new snow it still fun skiing. We didn’t get lot of vertical in but with the use of the rope we got to enter into some steep terrain!

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KINLEY AITKEN

KINLEY AITKEN Growing up on Vancouver’s North Shore, Kinley Aitken has been working in the mountains for 13 years. Although her climbing adventures have included the west coast to the deep south of North America, France, Italy, Greece, Spain and  Australia, Kinley can’t think of a better way to spend a summers day than cruising up clean splitter cracks…

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Canadian Rockies Climbing – Paper Chase 5.11a, Guides Rock

Back up to Guides rock just outside of Banff in the Canadian Rockies this time of the 5.11a “Paper Chase”.  At 5.11a this route packs a punch with tricky gear, steep technical climbing and wild exposure.  The rock on this face never ceases to amaze!!  Absolutely world class rock. Never mind the ticket to France…

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Canadian Rockies Climbing – Sea of Dream 5.10d, Guides Rock

With tempertures pushing 30c my trip in the Canadian Rockies Mountains where amazing!! We managed to sneak in a late afternoon ascent of the Banff multi pitch classic “Sea of Dreams” 5.10d. The 6 pitch bolted sport route when down in a couple hours of beautiful lime stone climbing in the sun! Here are some pics.

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Tantalus Range Skiing

Skiing in the Tantalus Range If you are lucky enough to nail the weather the skiing in the Tantalus is amazing! Imagine a mini Alaska within minutes of town.  Big alpine faces, spines, couloirs and ripping glacier make this the place to be. We offer either day trips into the area via helicopter or overnight trips…

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Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine at the Callaghan Lodge

Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine were with Altus Mountain Guides Crosby and Ross this week at the Callaghan Lodge. What a great place to spend the week with some top doctors for the completion of the Diploma In Mountain Medicine. All graduates of the winter program had already completed the summer module last September in…

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Tantalus Range Skiing

Tantalus is an incredible coastal mountain range alive with rumbling glaciers and stunning alpine mountains all within an hour drive from Vancouver. The well-kept secret of the Tantalus is found in Tantalus Provincial Park just north of Squamish town site.

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Whistler Backcountry Skiing

Go Whistler Backcountry Skiing and you will experience what Whistler really has to offer. Regardless of your experience. If you want a rewarding ski experience during your stay in Whistler, give us a call. Backcountry skiing in Whistler / Blackcomb is second to none. Large rolling glaciers, steep faces, and untracked powder, this is the essence of Whistler skiing.

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Angel’s Crest, 13 pitches, Squamish, Canada 5.10b

Route description:  Angel’s Crest 5.10b 13 pitches, Squamish, Canada ANGLES CREST 13 pitches up a stunning arete, this rock climb is more like a mountain route than a rock climb. Angel’s Crest is a “must do” multi pitch rock climb for any rock climber that visits or lives in the Squamish area. Jam packed with interesting rock climbing…

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Squamish Rock Climbing is in full swing

The last three weeks in Squamish have been blessed with sunny skies and temperatures more typical of summer than early spring.  Climbs of all lengths and difficulties are getting done, from the boulders of the Grand Wall to the heights of the Angel’s Crest.  With such an early start to the rock climbing season, this…

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Whistler Backcountry Ski Touring

Here are some photos from this winter of our Ski Touring trips in the Backcountry near Whistler. What a winter! Link to Whistler Ski Touring: http://altusmountainguides.com/ski/backcountry-touring/whistler-3/   Whistler Backcountry Ski Touring. Go Whistler Backcountry Ski Touring and you will experience what Whistler really has to offer. Regardless of your experience, if you desire a more remote and rewarding ski…

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2013 Squamish Mountain Festival July 11-15th

    2013 Squamish Mountain Festival July 11-15th A Celebration of Climbing Culture July 19th, 2013 – 12:00am – July 21st, 2013 – 11:59pm When it comes to gravity-defying climbing, bouldering and huge mountain culture, no-where delivers it better than Squamish, British Columbia. The sixth-annual event, highlighting the world-famous climbing culture and all those who are on…

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Squamish Rock Climbing Tick-List ~ Photos.

50 Classic Squamish Climbs – 50 Climbs

Squamish Climbing. Fifty multipitch routes found on the Squamish Chief. An excellent poster of these climbs can be found at http://50classicsquamishclimbs.com

Squamish Rock Climbing is world class! These are just some of the best routes Squamish has to offer.

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AST 1 Whistler

AST 1 Whistler! Hey Backcountry Ladies! we have a ladies only avalanche skills training course (AST 1) happening March 2,3 in Whistler. If you haven’t taken an avalanche course yet this is your chance to get out with a small group of backcountry ladies to learn some skills. Only 2 spots left!! FACEBOOK LINK 

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Blackcomb Backcountry Touring December 24 2012

Blackcomb Backcountry Touring! For Christmas all the good backcountry skiers received 2 weeks of mind blowing conditions and weather. Good stability, blower powder and blue skies. Its doesn’t get much better!!! December 24 Tim W and I got out into the Whistler Backcountry for a day of ski touring. We headed off the Blackcomb mountain, first…

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Cascade Falls, Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing

Every year when the temperature starts to drop all the ice climber start looking around to see if ice has started to form up on the cliff faces. Some years the ice hardly forms and other you can find beautiful climbable blue ice everywhere!! This year is one of those. Conditions are amazing, ice is everywhere.

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CSMM Pre Course Training now offered.

If you are planning to take the Canadian Society of Mountain Medicine Diploma Course this  pre training could help you out. http://altusmountainguides.com/learn/mountaineering-learn/canadian-society-of-mountain-medicine-pre-course-training-winter-and-summer/ Check out the summer course: http://altusmountainguides.com/blog/canadian-society-of-mountain-medicine-training-week/  

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What an awesome day in the Cariboos today! 50cm of fresh snow and blue skies! Perfect!

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Ice Climbing in the Canadian Rockies

  We were in Banff last week for the Mountain Film Festival and managed to sneak out for a few pitches of Ice climbing.  Conditions were quite mild owing to a Chinook passing along the front ranges but we headed up to the Stanley Headwall, finding tons of climbable ice in this refrigerator box of…

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