Tantalus Range Mountaineering

Overview

The Tantalus Range is the most convenient, stacked, beautiful mountaineering destination on the coast of BC. With ample snow and rock routes close to the hut this area is truly the pinnacle of mountaineering in the Sea to Sky area.

There are 2 areas in the range: Lake Lovely water where the Tantalus hut is, And the higher alpine area where the Haberl hut is.

The climbing around the Tantalus is non glaciated and more scrambling than technical climbing.  The Haberl hut is surrounded by glaciers and all the routes involve snow/ice climbing and more technical rock.  We almost exclusively climb out of the Haberl hut.

Acess

Located between Vancouver and Whistler BC, a 45-minute drive from either location.  The trail head or helicopter flights both originate from the town of Squamish.  THere are two options to access this mountain range, by foot or helicopter. By foot requires a river to creatively cross, either cable walking or canoe followed by a hearty hike to the lower Tantalus hut.  From there another 4-6 hour hike through difficult terrain and glacier, you will arrive at the alpine Haberl hut.  Both huts are accessible via helicopter as well, which if your goals is to climb much more preferable.  A 15minute flight will have you on the glacier ready to strike.  Flights are available from Blacktusk heli.

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Lake Lovely Water + Tantalus Hut Area

The Tantalus hut was built by the ACC in 1961 as a base for mountaineering in the Tantalus Range. It is located at the outflow end of Lake Lovely Water (elevation 1170m / 3850 feet) in the Tantalus Range in the Coast Mountains, approximately 64 km northwest of Vancouver. This site is located in Tantalus Provincial Park. The Tantalus Hut is a two-storey wooden structure with a large kitchen/dining room on the main floor and a separate sleeping loft above with foam mattresses for 20 people. While the Tantalus area offers limited simple hiking opportunities, the scenery at Lake Lovely Water alone is fabulous. In good weather, people enjoy swimming, boating and fishing. There is a wide variety of climbing and scrambling opportunities of various grades.  CITEE

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Lake lovely water climbing objectives

Omega Mountain: The closest peak to the hut, a short jaunt through the woods lead to the morainal slope and finally a summit right with difficulties to low 5th class.

Niobe Mountain: Often connected with its neighbouring peak Pelion. Similar start to omega, but with a quick glaciated section and easier rock to the summit! 3rd class scramble

omega,niobe

Alpha Mountain East Ridge 5.8: Arguably the best route in the range. A steep somewhat rough hike leads to East ridge of Alpha Mountain. Climbing up to 5.8 on a good granite ridge!

Alpha Mountain North West Ridge 4th class: Also used as the descent route from the East Ridge. A hike along the east side of lake lovely water take (or canoe) takes us through the alpine to the Serratus/Alpha col. 4th class scrambling

alpha

Haberl Hut Area

The Jim Haberl Hut is idea for first-time Mountaineers or hikers.  With luxuries of the newly constructed hut and a variety of terrain in the Tantalus Range this trip is suited for the first time mountaineer or experienced mountain climber.  Many challenges await just steps from the little-known paradise in the back yard of Vancouver and the Sea to Sky corridor.

An exhilarating helicopter ride brings you from sea level to 2000m and the Jim Haberl Hut. Crampons are a must as you step out of the hut and make your way toward the dayʼs objective: Serratus, Alpha, Dione orTantalus. Each offers its own unique challenge: rock, Ice, snow and mixed – the Tantalus Range has it all!

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Haberl Hut climbing objectives

Mount Serratus: This is the closest peak to the hut with lots of options!  Our most common routes are: North Face, West Ridge, Crosmiques Arete

Mount Serratus - North face

serratus north face

 

 

Mount Serratus - Crosmiques Arete 5.9

Crosmiques arete
cros line

Mount Serratus - West rib

Serrrays

Mount Serratus - West face decent

Serratus W Face Rappel

Mount Dione and Tantalus

These are the crown jewels of the area, side by side peaks forms the impressive wall seen from the highway

Mount Dione SE Face

Mount Tantalus SE spur

Dione and Tantalus showing the lines we climbed

Skiing in the Tantalus Range

If you are lucky enough to nail the weather the skiing in the Tantalus is amazing! Imagine a mini Alaska within minutes of town.  Big alpine faces, spines, couloirs and ripping glacier make this the place to be.

We offer either day trips into the area via helicopter or overnight trips staying at the Haberl hut.

Serratus-card
Dione-card
Dione-Card1

Summer Gallery

Tantalus Alpine

Winter Gallery

Tantalus Alpine

About Ross Berg

Ross has guided, climbed and skied in the European Alps for the last several seasons. When he's at home he can be found working as a heli ski guide in winters and climbing alpine rock routes in summer.