Earlier this week myself and fellow guide Brent Phillips climbed Mount Tricouni via the North Ridge. I have climbed this route and a few other features a couple times now and I really recommend visiting this peak, the access is great, beautiful setting and the north ridge is interesting and challenging on good rock. A great day trip.
Drive: Turn off at Chance creek FSR and follow this road to the end or as far as you can go! (Chance FSR is pretty much right between Squamish and Whistler on the West side) We parked at 9km but people had driven the remaining few kilometers but the road is washed out and over grown so wouldn’t recommend if you care about your truck!.
Approach: 50 feet past the end of the road there is a flagged trail leading up hill to the north, this very nice trail leads through alpine meadows and creeks to a picturesque lake (1 hour) From the lake contour around the right hand side (east) and up to the obvious col on the east flank of Tricouni (1 hour). The snow that still remained around the lake and leading up to the glacier made for good and pretty quick travel up and down. At the col drop down the north side to the glacier. All crevasses where easily walked around and the moat on to the rock face required down climbing about a body length until it was possible to easily reach the rock.
We climbed the first rock section in 2-30 meter pitches, the rock is great with lots of options for belays and lines (5.4). From the first ledge make your way to the north ridge proper crossing a 50 meter steep snow patch and some more easy scrambling. Once on the ridge follow it up to the top on good rock!
Descent: Head south down easy terrain until you reach a small bluff facing west, here we made on 30 meter rappel into a small basin. It looks like a down climbing would also be an options with patient route finding. From here join back on to the south ridge until you can find a left trending ramp leading back down the east face above the lake on the approach. Easy down climbing.